En Septiembre de 1901, muchos periódicos de Estados Unidos (Texas, Nebraska, Kansas, New Jersey, Colorado), publicaron un breve, que las corridas de toros en bicicleta en España, eran muy populares, y que ya habían toreado hacía un tiempo, el ciclista, Carlos Rodríguez, y el picador Badila, (picador: Torero de a caballo que pica con garrocha a los toros, en la corrida de toros.). Bueno pues está noticia ya se publicaba en Nueva York, en febrero de 1897, que firmaba el Chicago Tribune. Bueno pues se produjo por primera vez, en 29/07/1895, y en la plaza de toros de Madrid, pero no era una corrida de toros, era el festival organizado por los industriales del calzado, y se trataba de intentar rejonear (toreo a caballo) un becerro (no es ni siquiera un toro, ni llega a novillo), los resultados no fueron muy exitosos, Carlos se calló de la bicicleta al intentar clavar el rejón, a Badila le sucedió lo mismo y hubo risas. Pero este post no va de tauromaquia, de la que yo soy un auténtico analfabeto. Estos días que las bicicletas, se han convertido en ese objeto de deseo, para poder salir del confinamiento, tanto las estáticas mientras hemos estado confinados, como las otras, cuando se ha permitido hacer deporte por la calle, incluso aumentando los carriles bici las autoridades, este amor por la bicicleta no era común.
La Comedia Gijonesa (Gijón) 18/08/1889
Aunque no era extraño para extranjeros, intentar hacer vueltas a España, hay que tener en cuenta, que la Vuelta Ciclista a España se realiza por primera vez en 1935, y de la tres grandes como se las conoce ahora, a las carreras ciclistas, es la última, el Giro de Italia 1909 y el Tour de Francia en 1903, pues antes que todo esto ocurriera, ya hubo norteamericanos, que hicieron la Vuelta a España, incluso algunos lo dejaron reflejado en libros, es el caso William Hunter Workman (Worcester – Massachusetts – EEUU 16/02/1847 – Netown – Massachusetts – EEUU 10/10/1937) y su esposa Fanny Bullock Workman (Worcester – Massachusetts – EEUU 08/01/1859 – Cannes – Francia 22/01/1925), que era hija del Gobernador de Massachusetts, Alexander Bullock, “Sketches awheel in modern Iberia”, publicado en 1897 (https://archive.org/details/sketchesawheeli00workgoog), en 2019 por primera vez se traducía al español, en formato ebook, por la editorial Casiopea, con el título “España en bicicleta 1895”, y cuentan su viaje, que fue como una vuelta ciclista, pero que no terminó en Madrid como habitualmente termina, sino que salieron por Irún (Guipúzcoa – País Vasco), y comenzó en la otra frontera, en Port Bou (Gerona – Cataluña), incluso hicieron una escapada al extranjero, como hacen ahora las carreras ciclistas, en este caso, fueron a Tánger y Tetuán (Marruecos), aunque un poco más larga, 4.500 km, en 2019 la Vuelta España fueron 3.272,200 km, eran etapas de 75 km/día con picos de 125 km, y con un equipaje de 5 a 9 kg, y fue en primavera y verano, empezó el 1 de abril, recorrieron todas las Comunidades Autónomas actuales, salvo 3, Galicia, Asturias y Cantabria, tuvieron dificultad para obtener información previa sobre los caminos, bueno pues de las carreteras nos decían “Las peores se hallan en las provincias de Aragón, Cataluña, Castellón, Valencia, Murcia y en el sur de Madrid. Están en mejor condición en Extremadura y Andalucía, especialmente en los lugares del sur y del oeste de las provincias. Y las mejores se concentran en Castilla La Mancha, el norte y este de Madrid, Castilla y León y Navarra. En las dos últimas provincias nombradas no nos encontramos con un mal camino, y muchos no sufrirían en comparación con los de otros países continentales, siendo muy superiores a algunos que poco después atravesaron en el sur de Francia. Se dice lo mismo de las carreteras de Galicia y Asturias”.
Muchas veces algunas de esas
carreteras no tenían puentes, para pasar los ríos, y había 2 opciones, a través
de unas piedras colocadas en el cauce, o simplemente pasar a través del río. En
muchas ocasiones, tuvieron que poner pie a tierra y empujar la bicicleta,
debido a caminos inestables, arcillosos, con baches y sin ningún tipo de
pavimentación, o por tramos en obras.
Cuando se entraba en España,
como ocurría en otros países de Europa, había que dejar un dinero en depósito,
según el peso de la bicicleta y que recuperarían cuando volvieran a salir por
el mismo lugar y en la fecha prevista.
Ellos visitaron las 5 ciudades
más pobladas, hoy de España, Madrid, Barcelona, Valencia, Sevilla, Zaragoza.
En Madrid, estuvieron en 2
ocasiones, una primera corta, en la segunda, “…llegamos a la conclusión presumiblemente alcanzada por otros turistas, que
además de la interesante Armería, el Museo del Prado es la gran atracción de
esta capital viva pero incolora. De manera poco entusiasta, uno cabalga por el
Prado y el Retiro, camina por los amplios bulevares y se para en la Puerta del
Sol con la esperanza de ver a Mazantini (torero) en el vestido de fiesta pasar
a un café, como no lo hace, uno sigue adelante, reprimiendo un bostezo pensando
cuánto mejor se entiende en París los atractivos de las grandes villas. Pero el
Museo del Prado es una delicia constante para el visitante, y es lo único en
Madrid que lo hace desear regresar después de salir de España….”. En el partido
judicial de Madrid había 480.776 habitantes (Anuario de 1896).
Sobre Barcelona, “Barcelona,
además de ser un centro comercial e industrial ocupado, despierto y en rápido
crecimiento, que contrasta fuertemente con algunas otras ciudades españolas que
parecen estar envueltas en las brumas de la Edad Media, …..Otros pueden
encontrarlo así, pero para nosotros no es una ciudad hermosa. ….La nueva parte
está bien diseñada, pero sus calles y bulevares, aunque amplios, regulares y
bien hechos, aún presentan una apariencia muy poco desarrollada. Tal vez en
veinticinco años Barcelona pueda llamarse bella, pero está muy ocupada con el
proceso de llegar a serlo para merecer ese título hoy. Sea como fuere,
Barcelona está demasiado distante para ser visitada por la belleza moderna, y
aquellos en busca de eso podrían detenerse en Francia, donde al menos esto se
encuentra en un estado de desarrollo más alto…..Barcelona no es un lugar
agradable para que una mujer visite una bicicleta debido a la gran cantidad de
mecánicos y trabajadores en todo momento en las calles. Aun así, en lo que respecta
al asunto, incluso en la regulación de la calle, no puede caminar una manzana
sola sin ser groseramente hablada.”. En el partido judicial de Barcelona había
449.412 habitantes (Anuario de 1896)
Sobre Valencia, simplemente hablan del Cid, una breve descripción de monumentos y se centran en una explicación del tipo de ventana árabe, el ajimez. En el partido judicial de Valencia había 210.341 habitantes, la ciudad 170.763 habitantes (Anuario 1898)
Sobre Sevilla, “en un día fresco el pasado mes de mayo entramos en Sevilla, y como no estábamos familiarizados con las intrincadas calles, la escolta de dos policías, que amablemente se ofrecieron a llevarnos a nuestro hotel, fue aceptada. Desde el momento en que uno ingresa a Sevilla, se deja en la mente una impresión diferente a la de cualquier otra ciudad española. Las calles estrechas están cubiertas de toldos, las plazas y los mercados están llenos de bulliciosos y característicos grupos andaluces, el automóvil es asaltado por una combinación de sonidos extraños que emanan de una orquesta de órganos de mano, trovadores ambulantes, transportadores de agua y rebuznando burros, el ojo es atrapado por vislumbres repentinos de viejos arcos, exquisitas puertas, torres y techos adornados con tejas de colores, patios encantadores con fuentes frescas y plantas verdes que sugieren bellezas sevillanas y tertulias nocturnas de verano”. En el partido judicial de Sevilla había 184.344 habitantes, la ciudad 143.182 habitantes (Anuario 1898)
Sobre Zaragoza, “Con la excepción de San Pablo, que tiene una imponente torre de ladrillo octogonal árabe, pocos edificios de interés quedan en Zaragoza. Las viejas casas han desaparecido, y las modernas están construidas de una manera tan insípida e insustancial como para darle a la ciudad una apariencia monótona y poco progresiva.
Al salir de Zaragoza, la calle estaba mal pavimentada y llena de carretas, cabalgamos por el paseo, como habíamos hecho a menudo en España sin interferencia de la policía. Pero en esta ocasión apenas habíamos comenzado, cuando escuchamos silbidos y llamadas, a lo que al principio no prestamos atención, pero mientras continuaban, desmontamos. Un policía inmediatamente nos abordó exigiendo nuestros nombres y una multa de cinco pesetas cada uno. Manifestamos, diciendo que habíamos montado en los paseos por toda España, particularmente en la mañana cuando había poca gente fuera, y siendo extranjeros no sabíamos que esto estaba prohibido en Zaragoza. Persistió en su demanda, cuando varios caballeros interfirieron de nuestra parte y diciéndole que esta no era forma de tratar a extraños. Durante un tiempo no le impresionaron y estábamos a punto de pagar la multa cuando cedió y nos permitió partir. El real inusual que se muestra en la administración de asuntos civiles en Zaragoza en muchos aspectos fue muy divertido, pero el incidente ofreció otra prueba de la disposición amistosa de los caballeros españoles, que desde el principio hasta el final de nuestro viaje siempre nos echaron mano cuando era necesario, listos para hacernos un favor.”. En el partido judicial de Zaragoza había 111.306 habitantes, la ciudad 92.407 habitantes (Anuario 1898).
En la prensa española que he mirado no he encontrado casi ninguna noticia de este viaje, y solo he encontrado una mención, en El Heraldo de Madrid del 26/04/1895, que no estaba muy acertado en cierta afirmación, “Mr. And Mrs. Workman, el matrimonio inglés que llegó anteayer a Madrid, ha reanudado hoy su expedición a través de España, saliendo a las seis de la mañana, por la carretera de Andalucía con dirección a Granada. La señora, que por cierto está en cinta, monta máquina Humber, provista de Boudard Gear, su distinguido esposo ha tomado a su paso por Madrid otra de igual marca, pues la alemana que traía ha sufrido desperfectos de consideración. El matrimonio recorrerá toda Andalucía y se correrá después hacia el NO de la Península”. El matrimonio Workman, eran Norteamericanos, tuvo una hija, Rachel, nacida en 1884.
Tuvieron muchos problemas con el servicio postal, muchas de las cartas que enviaron no llegaron a destino. No nos dicen nada en su libro, que paso en Irún (País Vasco), al salir de España si recuperaron el depósito que realizaron en Port Bou (Cataluña), aunque no fuera aquel pago muy ortodoxo.
Las Ordenanzas Generales de rentas de Aduanas, de 15/10/1894, en su Capitulo IV, casos especiales de importación y de reimportación, artículo 141, punto 1 El plazo para la libre estancia en España de los carruajes y caballerías de alquiler, incluso los carros para transporte de muebles, será de 40 días, debiendo hacerse la reexportación por la misma Aduana de entrada.
Punto 2, para los carruajes y caballerías pertenecientes a particulares el plazo será de seis meses; pudiendo verificarse la salida por distinta Aduana de la de entrada. Los viajeros en velocípedo (bicicleta) podrán también importar éstos bajo iguales reglas.
En 1897, la importación de una bicicleta tenía las siguientes tarifas, era por peso, y la unidad, eran 100 kg., había 2 tipos, una de 84 pesetas/ unidad y la segunda 70 pesetas/ unidad, la diferencia es que existiera o no un convenio con el país de importación.
Tuvieron muchos problemas con el servicio postal, muchas de las cartas que enviaron no llegaron a destino. No nos dicen nada en su libro, que paso en Irún (País Vasco), al salir de España si recuperaron el depósito que realizaron en Port Bou (Cataluña), aunque no fuera aquel pago muy ortodoxo.
Las Ordenanzas Generales de rentas de Aduanas, de 15/10/1894, en su Capitulo IV, casos especiales de importación y de reimportación, artículo 141, punto 1 El plazo para la libre estancia en España de los carruajes y caballerías de alquiler, incluso los carros para transporte de muebles, será de 40 días, debiendo hacerse la reexportación por la misma Aduana de entrada.
Punto 2, para los carruajes y caballerías pertenecientes a particulares el plazo será de seis meses; pudiendo verificarse la salida por distinta Aduana de la de entrada. Los viajeros en velocípedo (bicicleta) podrán también importar éstos bajo iguales reglas.
En 1897, la importación de una bicicleta tenía las siguientes tarifas, era por peso, y la unidad, eran 100 kg., había 2 tipos, una de 84 pesetas/ unidad y la segunda 70 pesetas/ unidad, la diferencia es que existiera o no un convenio con el país de importación.
El Heraldo de Madrid, 02/07/1893
En esas fechas la prensa de
Madrid, va contando el viaje en bicicleta, por ejemplo, La Correspondencia de
España, el 29/06/1893 publicaba, de unos ciclistas franceses Perrodil (Albi –
Francia 19/11/1860 – Ambrus – Francia 12/03/1931) y Farman (Paris 26/05/1874 –
Paris 18/07/1958), que retrasaban su viaje a Madrid por el mal tiempo y que el
día 28 de junio, a las 14:00 habían salido de Burdeos, el 29 a las 8:00 de Mont
de Marsan llegando a la frontera esa misma noche, y no llegando a Madrid hasta
el 2 de julio. El viaje era narrado en el periódico cada día a golpe de
telegrama, como si fuera la crónica de una vuelta ciclista deportiva. El día 29
llegaron a las 20:35 a Bayona con un tercer compañero, Boyer, continuando a San
Sebastian de donde partieron a las 4:00 con destino Victoria. El 1 llegaron a
Valladolid a las 19:00, saliendo para Olmedo a las 22:00, y de madrugada desde Olmedo
hacia Madrid, atravesando el puerto de Guadarrama, donde parece que sufrieron
varias caídas, entraron en Madrid a las 19:40 por la Puerta de Hierro. Perrodil
era redactor del periódico francés, Le Petit Journal. Este viaje también
terminó escribiéndose en un libro, con ilustraciones de Farman, “Vélo! Toro!: Paris-Madrid à bicyclette en 1893”
publicado en 1894, en 2013 se ha publicado en español, editado por interfolio.
La Correspondencia de España 02/07/1893
Bueno pues podemos decir que en el caso de Estados Unidos, sería al contrario porque en 1900, un joven de Chicago vino a España, para un viaje en bicicleta por el país, y les enviaba un resumen de la prensa española, a sus padres por carta, hablaban de Estados Unidos, principalmente los antiamericanos, habla de “El Imparcial” y “El Libertad”, nuestro amigo les traducía las noticias, y llega a mencionar un periódico nuevo “El Mateo” del que decía que mencionaba en sus artículos una posible Revolución interna en USA.Hay que recordar, que no hacía mucho, que se había acabado la guerra de 1898 (25/04/1898 – 12/08/1898). Pero el que sí podía hablar mejor del tema, fue el periodista Poultney Bigelow (Nueva York 10/09/1855 – Saugerties - Nueva York 28/05/1954), porque hizo un viaje en bicicleta en España, llegando a Hendaya (Francia) el 3 de marzo de 1898, donde le pusieron en su bicicleta un sello de plomo, que debía conservar hasta su regreso a Francia, para no tener que pagar ningún arancel. Hay que recordar que en esas fechas ya soplaban vientos de guerra, entre Estados Unidos y España, la explosión del acorazado Maine en La Habana, fue el 15/02/1898. Poultney no venía solo, le acompañaban dos amigos George Devoll (tenor) y Edwin Islam (barítono), y en bicicletas norteamericanas. En la frontera de España, les gravaron las bicicletas, como si fueran importadas, pero el agente, les indicó que a la salida del país se les devolvería, Bigelow, como los Workman, vuelve a indicar que la recuperación de ese dinero debía ser por el mismo puesto fronterizo, si recordamos la ley, no decía exactamente eso. Tuvieron que pagar además en su vuelta a Francia, un campesino Español que se las limpio en una ocasión, cortó los sellos.
Desde Irún se dirigieron a San Sebastián, donde visitaron una fortaleza, sorprendidos porque los centinelas no les dijeran nada, incluso de la cámara que llevaba en las manos. Buscaban un mapa para poder ir a su próxima parada que era Tolosa, y para el resto de su viaje por España, acudieron al Veloz Club Donostiarra, pero no obtuvieron la ayuda deseada, lo máximo que obtuvieron fue como llegar a Tolosa, lo primero que descubrieron fue el barro de los caminos, e incluso usaron las aceras, cosa que les sorprendió, los peatones y ciclistas las usaban con cortesía y respeto al otro, llevándole a la siguiente afirmación “ el español está decididamente en un plano más elevado de civilización en lo que respeta a la educación de la calle que el Estadounidense o el Inglés…… como debe despreciarnos los españoles por nuestros modales bárbaros”.
En esta primera etapa, les explotó un neumático, aunque los pinchazos serán diarios y una de la bicicleta en Madrid sería sustituida.
Una cosa que aconseja a los viajeros por España, que no deberían desanimarse por las apariencias, que ellos aprendieron desde su parada en Tolosa, donde se alojaron en la Fonda Agueda, las cenas, camas y desayunos, les cobraron 5 pesetas, 0,75 $, su idea era que los gastos diarios no superaran 1 $, nos dice que lo consiguieron salvo en las grandes ciudades y las compras que hacía Islam. Incluso nos cuenta una comida al pie del camino, habían comprado 1 barra pan, 1 l. vino, un trozo de chocolate, unos cacahuetes y unas naranjas, con un coste menor de 0,10 $ por cabeza.
Devoll e Islam. Harper's Weekly 14/05/1898
La siguiente parada fue Vitoria, en esta zona los campesinos todavía usaban aperos muy antiguos, y en algún puerto de montaña, tuvieron que poner pie a tierra, como les había pasado a los Workman, y como ellos también sufrieron las reparaciones de las carreteras, ya que las rellenaba con piedras puntiagudas. En Vitoria les sirve de guía, un miembro del club de ciclismo, llegando a hablar sobre la situación de Cuba, no siendo muy crítico con la actuación de Estados Unidos, incluso pasearon cerca del nuevo cuartel de infantería que se estaba terminando, en la ciudad había 3 clubs sociales, uno leal al gobierno, y que incluso incluye a militares, otro muy radical casi socialista, y el 3º carlista (que lo definen como revolucionario), el anfitrión termina con la siguiente fase “Sí, está todo mal… estamos alentando la Guerra Civil….España tiene demasiada libertad”.
Entre Vitoria y Burgos debido a un accidente tuvieron que usar el tren, en 3ª clase iba lleno de soldados, y ya puede imaginar el lector donde acabaron nuestros amigos. Les dijeron a los soldados, que acababan de llegar de Londres e iban en bicicleta a Madrid. Cuando les preguntaban de donde eran, intentaban evadir la respuesta, y salvo en una ocasión en Valladolid, por parte de un cocinero inglés, pero por lo general, pasaron por lo que en Europa se conoció como “inglés loco”. Había leído que Castilla era un desierto, con pastores y rebaños, pero él la compara con California, Arizona,… ese clima y esas tierras, le encantaban, y encuentra explicación a la hospitalidad con el extraño de aquellas gentes, en la herencia española de aquellos Estados, muy diferente a los Estados orientales de USA.La mejor comida, que tuvieron, no solo en el viaje, sino en mucho tiempo, fue en un pueblo pequeño entre Burgos y Valladolid, llamado Quintana (pienso que fue Quintana del Puente), pararon allí porque tuvieron una avería que no les permitía seguir en bicicleta para llegar a destino, y un peón carretero que encontraron les llevó, no había ni posada, así que compraron en una casa un poco de carne y en otra una mujer les elaboró una cena, y les exigió ser servida a las 18:00, compuesta con una sopa con trozos de carne, carne con patatas Saratoga según Poultney, dudo que aquella pobre mujer sabría que son patatas Saratoga, y tampoco sería patatas fritas en aceite de oliva, que en aquellos tiempos el aceite de oliva todavía era un producto de lujo, una tortilla, y para terminar queso, naranjas y café, todo ello les supuso 0,16 $ por cabeza, al no haber hospedaje se acercaron a la estación y cogieron el tren a Valladolid, como no, en 3ª clase, allí se encontraron con un joven que volvía a casa de Cuba, con fiebre del pantano, el chico tiritaba, porque solo tenía su traje de soldado en Cuba, un hermano ya había perdido una mano en la isla.
Guardias Civiles, Peón Carretero, Quintana del Puente. Harper's Weekly 18/06/1898
Descubre que igual que el beisbol es el deporte de Estados Unidos, en todos los lugares de España se juega al juego de la pelota mano, incluso vio en una de las paredes de la Catedral de Burgos, una pintada que prohibía jugar a la pelota.Poultney visitó Toledo, donde, como todavía hoy sucede con los turistas USA, se sorprenden de la antigüedad de los edificios, como él dice “En España se habla de cosas modernas que consideraríamos como pedazos de antigüedad…. Y nos preocupamos por la antigüedad de una casa que ha sobrevivido desde la época de George Washington”, pero incluso en los pequeños pueblos había belleza arquitectónica. Aunque en Toledo, casi se integró totalmente en España, pudiendo ser torero, ya que tuvo que huir de un toro que se había escapado por dichas calles. El viaje de vuelta a Madrid lo hizo en tren, en vagón de 3ª clase, que en su criterio, es donde se aprende más de las personas e instituciones de España, en ese viaje tuvo de compañero a un guardia civil, institución que elogio y que USA debería copiar de Europa, una policía nacional, que protegiera carreteras y lugares, y no depender de cada policía local, todavía no existía el FBI.
En su estancia en Madrid, visita al político Emilio Castelar Ripoll (Cádiz 07/09/1832 – San Pedro de Pinatar – Murcia 25/05/1899), sobre el que dice grandes elogios, incluso a la falta de persecución por parte del Gobierno contra él, llega a decir “que socialmente España goza de más libertad política que Alemania”, parece que repite los pasos que había hecho el año anterior, y visita la Embajada Británica, a la salida de ella entabla conversación con un prohombre Español, que había conocido en la cena, celebrada hacía un año en casa de Castelar, nuestro amigo busca respuesta a una cosa que no entiende, que es las corridas de toros, como puede ser que durante todos su recorrido, había visto un trato exquisito con los burros, mulas…, y que no podía decir lo mismo en Inglaterra o América, y llega a la siguiente conclusión, del porqué, “el español, individualmente, es tan gentil, tan amable con sus familiares, como la gente de otros países europeos. Sus pecados surgen principalmente de la ignorancia, que, a su vez, produce una cierta indiferencia.”. También visitaron la Embajada de Estados Unidos, concretamente el 22 de marzo, para ellos fue como volver a casa, a diferencia de otros países, que eran propietarios de la legación, en este caso era un alquiler de unos 4.000 $ anuales, cosa que Bigelow reprobó; el embajador no se sentía inseguro, incluso el Gobierno Español había puesto en la puerta 6 policías por precaución y salvo ciertos grupos y prensa no veía nacionalismo o jingoísmo (expresión inglesa R.A.E. Patrioterismo exaltado que propugna la agresión contra otras naciones), que estaba en esos momentos en su punto álgido Estados Unidos, y que alguna vez en los artículos, Poultney criticó, hay que recordar la guerra en la prensa, entre Hearst y Pulitzer. Ah, como curiosidad el mayordomo era de color y nuestro amigo pedía para él una pensión cuando volviera a casa.
New York Daily Tribune 11/04/1897
Recorrieron la costa Mediterránea, entre Alicante y Valencia, donde nos cuenta que tuvieron la impresión de que nunca habían visto una bicicleta, incluso las mulas se asustaban al cruzarse con ellos, aunque ellos intentaban desmontar al avistarlas, y nunca tuvieron ningún problema con ningún arriero, por aquellas tierras parecían estar todavía en la época musulmana, si volviera nuestra amigo, creo que se iba a llevar una pequeña sorpresa. Fue en la única zona donde tuvo un incidente por hacer fotos con su Kodak, fue con un vecino, pero el resto se puso de su parte y pudo seguir fotografiando. Notaron la diferencia entre la policía del interior y la costera, esta última más reservada, no tan amables. Su principal función era la lucha contra el contrabando, ayudado éste por el perfil de la costa. Tuvo un encuentro con un centinela en Cabo San Martín (Alicante), un hombre con un traje militar raído, zapatos de campesino, una manta deshilachada y su hijo, estaba atento a los movimientos de una pequeña goleta, entre barcos pesqueros. Al niño le ofrecieron unos cacahuetes, que comió con satisfacción, pero el padre los rechazo amablemente, no fuera un complot para sobornarlo, durante todo su viaje por España, en ningún momento sintieron que el soborno les podría haber ayudado con funcionarios menores o policías.Bigelow, como habrá deducido el lector, era recurrente en todos los encuentros, la situación en Cuba, en ocasiones no parecía un viaje turístico y de placer. Él, por ejemplo el 28 de Mayo de 1898, publicaría en Harper’s un artículo sobre la batalla de Cabañas (Cuba), y enviaba crónicas desde Tampa (Florida), lugar con tantas influencias Españolas y Asturianas. Aunque el mismo resumió su viaje en bicicleta por España “Nuestro viaje en español fue un éxito inmenso, y aconsejo a los estadounidenses que sigan nuestro ejemplo. Tuvimos malos caminos en abundancia y algunas dificultades, pero nunca fue un día aburrido, nunca fue descortés, nunca fue una reunión que no resultó en amistad”.
Luis Álvarez Barbón publicó una estadística, de recopilación propia, el número de ciclistas en distintos países del mundo, en España dice que eran 20.000 (población española en 1897 18.108.610 habitantes), Estados Unidos 2.500.000 (en 1900 76.303.387), Inglaterra 1.400.000 (en Reino Unido 1897 39.987.300), Francia 600.000 (en 1896 38.517.000), y Alemania 500.000 (en 1900 56.046.000), (Barcelona Cómica 01/1897). Un año después el Chicago Times Herald publicaba un breve, en el que el cónsul de Estados Unidos, en Coruña, transmitía un informe donde decía que el uso de la bicicleta no había aumentado, y la población lo consideraba un pasatiempo de ricos, y termina con el siguiente comentario del periódico “tal nación no tiene remedio”. Aunque en el anuario de 1899 no figura ningún cónsul de Estados Unidos en Coruña, en el de 1898 aparece como cónsul, Julio Harmony, que vivía en la Plaza de Orense, 8, dicho hombre quitó el escudo y la bandera y se fue a Washington, según publicaba, La Iberia el 22/04/1898, aunque, en enero de 1900 ya tenía concedido el permiso para ejercer de cónsul en Coruña.
Sí, Chicago Times Herald, estoy de acuerdo, España no tiene remedio, imagínate William A. Spain, estuvo varios meses en 1908, en Wilmington (Deleware) preparándose para una vuelta al mundo, primero hacía Nueva York, y después de allí a la costa del Pacifico para irse a Japón, el viaje iba a durar 2 años, un poco menos que la expedición Magallanes-Elcano (20/09/1519 – 06/09/1522), la primera vuelta al mundo, Spain era barbero y natural de Memphis (Tennessee), su vuelta al mundo iba a ser en bicicleta.
Bibliografía: Adventure Journal 14/11/2012. Climber
and Explorer Fanny Bullock Workman, Brendan Leonard. Estadísticas
Históricas de España: XIX-XX. Fundación BBVA. Anuario del comercio, de la
industria, de la magistratura y de la administración, Bailly-Baillière. Statistical Abstract of the United
States, 1909. Institut National D’etudes Demographiques, Office for National
Statistics of United Kingdom. Statistisches Bundesant Deutschland. Evening
Journal Wilmington 29/08/1908
I apologize for my English
In September 1901, many newspapers in the United States (Texas, Nebraska, Kansas, New Jersey, Colorado) published a brief new, that bicycle bullfights in Spain, were very popular, and that they had already bullfought for a while, the cyclist, Carlos Rodríguez, and the picador Badila, (picador: Bullfighter on horseback who pricks bulls in a bullfight.). Well, this news was already published in New York, in February 1897, signed by the Chicago Tribune. Well, it was produced for the first time, on 07/29/1895, and in the Madrid bullring, but it was not a bullfight, it was the festival organized by the footwear manufacturers, and it was about trying to rejonear (bullfighting on horseback) a calf (he is not even a bull, nor does he reach a steer), the results were not very successful, Carlos fell silent from the bicycle when trying to nail the rejón, the same thing happened to Badila and there was laughter. But this post is not about bullfighting, of which I am a authentic illiterate. These days that bicycles have become that object of desire, to be able to get out of confinement, both the static ones while we have been confined, and the others, when sports have been allowed on the street, even increasing the bicycle lanes, the authorities, this love for the bicycle was not common.
La Comedia
Gijonesa (Gijón) August 18, 1889
Although it was not strange for foreigners,
trying to make laps in Spain, it should be borne in mind, that the Vuelta
Ciclista a España Although it was not strange for foreigners, trying to make
laps in Spain, it should be borne in mind, that the Vuelta Ciclista a España
was held for the first time in 1935, and of the big three as they are now
known, cycling races, it is the last, the Giro d'Italia 1909 and the Tour
France in 1903, because before all this happened, there were already North
Americans who made la Vuelta a España, some even reflected it in books, is the
case of William Hunter Workman (Worcester - Massachusetts - USA February 16,
1847 - Netown - Massachusetts - USA October 10, 1937) and his wife Fanny
Bullock Workman (Worcester - Massachusetts - USA January 08, 1859 - Cannes -
France January 22, 1925), which was the daughter of Massachusetts Governor
Alexander Bullock, "Sketches awheel in modern Iberia", published in
1897 (https://archive.org/details/sketchesawheeli00workgoog), in 2019 for the
first time was translated into Spanish, in ebook format, by the Casiopea
publishing house, with the title “España en bicicleta 1895”, and they tell of
their trip, which was like a cycling tour, but which did not end in Madrid as
it usually ends, but they went out by Irún (Guipúzcoa - Basque Country), and It
started on the other border, in Port Bou (Gerona - Catalonia), they even made a
trip abroad, as the cycling races do now, in this case, they went to Tangier
and Tetouan (Morocco), although a little longer, 4,500 km , in 2019 the Vuelta
España were 3,272.2 km, they were stages of 75 km / day with peaks of 125 km,
and with a luggage of 5 to 9 kg, and it was in spring and summer, it started on
April 1, they traveled all the current Autonomous Communities, except 3,
Galicia, Asturias and Cantabria, had difficulty obtaining prior information
about the roads, well, they told us about the roads “We found the average of
roads poorest in the provinces of Aragón, Cataluña, Castellón, Valencia, Murcia
and in the southern half of New Castile,
form Madrid south; better in Extremadura an Andalucía, particularly in the
southern and western portions; and best in New Castile north and east of
Madrid, Old Castile, Leon, and Navarre. In the two last named provinces we did
not meet with a bad road, and many would not suffer in comparison with those of
other Continental countries, being far superior to some soon afterwards traversed
in the south of France. The same is said to be true of the roads of Galicia and
the Asturias, which provinces we did not visit.”In Madrid, they were on 2 occasions, a first short, the second, “… we came to the conclusion presumably reached by other tourists, that besides the interesting Armoury the Museum of the Prado is the great attraction of this lively but colourless capital. In a half-hearted way one rides in the Prado and the Retiro, walks in the broad boulevards, and stands in the Puerta del Sol hoping to see Mazantini in vestido de fiesta pass into a café, as he does not, one moves on, suppressing a yawn thinking how much better grande villa allurements are understood in Paris. But the Museum of the Prado is a constant delight to the visitor, and is the one thing in Madrid that makes him desirous to return after leaving Spain….”. In the judicial district of Madrid there were 480,776 inhabitants (Yearbook of 1896).
About Barcelona, “Barcelona besides being a busy, wide-awake, rapidly growing commercial and industrial center, contrasting strongly with some other Spanish cities that seem still to be shrouded in the mists of the Middle Ages, …..Others may find it so, but to our minds it is not a beautiful city….. The new part is well laid out, but its streets and boulevards though wide, regular, and well-made, as yet present a very undeveloped appearance. Perhaps in twenty-five years Barcelona may be called beautiful, but it is to much taken up with the process of becoming so to merit that title today. Be this as it may, Barcelona is too distant to be visited for the modern beautiful, and those in search of that might better stop in France, where at least this is found in a higher state of development……Barcelona is not a pleasant place for a woman to visit with a bicycle on account of the great number of rough mechanics and labourers at all times on the streets. Still, as for that matter, even in regulation street grown she cannot walk a block alone without being rudely spoken to”. In the judicial district of Barcelona there were 449,412 inhabitants (Yearbook of 1896)
Fanny Bullock Workman is across a river in Catalonia. Sketches awheel in modern Iberia
About Valencia, they simply talk about El Cid, a brief description of monuments and focus on an explanation of the type of Arab window, the ajimez. In the judicial district of Valencia, there were 210,341 inhabitants, the city 170,763 inhabitants (Yearbook 1898)About Seville, “on a cool day the last of May we entered Seville, and as we were unacquainted with the intricate streets, the escort of two policemen, who kindly offered to take us to our hotel, was accepted. From the moment one enters Seville a different impression is made on the mind from that made by any other Spanish city. The narrow streets are covered with awnings, the squares and market-places are alive with bustling and characteristic Andalucian groups, the car is assailed by a combination of uncanny sounds emanating from an orchestra of hand-organs, strolling minstrels, water-carries, and braying donkeys, the eye is seized by sudden glimpses of old arches, exquisite doorways, towers and roofs adorned with coloured tiles, lovely patios with cool fountains and green plants suggestive of Sevillian beauties and summer night tertulias”. In the judicial district of Seville, there were 184,344 inhabitants, the city 143,182 inhabitants (Yearbook 1898)
About Zaragoza, “With the exception of San Pablo, which has an imposing Moorish octagonal brick tower, few buildings of interest are left in Zaragoza. The old houses have disappeared, and the modern ones are built in such a tasteless, unsubstantial manner as to give the city a monotonous, unprogressive appearance.
In leaving Zaragoza the street being badly paved and filled with wagons, we rode on the promenade, as we had often done in Spain without interference from the police. But on this occasion we had hardly started, when we heard whistling and calls, to which at first we paid no attention, but as they continued we dismounted. A gendarme at once accosted us demanding our names and a fine of five pesetas each. We remonstrated, saying we had ridden on the promenades all over Spain, particularly in the morning when few people were out, and being strangers did not know that this was prohibited in Zaragoza. He persisted in his demand, when several gentlemen interfered taking our part and telling him this was no way to treat strangers. For some time they made no impression on him and we were about to pay the fine when he yielded and permitted us to depart. The unusual real displayed in the administration of civil affairs in Zaragoza in many respects so behind the times was amusing, but the incident afforded another proof of the friendly disposition of the Spanish caballeros, who from the beginning to the end of our journey were always on hand when needed, ready to do us a favour”. In the judicial district of Zaragoza, there were 111,306 inhabitants, the city 92,407 inhabitants (Yearbook 1898).
In the Spanish press that I have looked I have not found almost any news of this trip, and I only have found a mention, in El Heraldo de Madrid of April 26, 1895, that I was not very correct in certain affirmation, “Mr. and Mrs. Workman, “Mr. And Mrs. Workman, the English marriage who arrived the day before yesterday in Madrid, today resumed their expedition through Spain, leaving at six in the morning, by the road from Andalusia, towards Granada. The lady, who by the way is pregnant, rides a Humber machine, equipped with Boudard Gear, her distinguished husband has taken another one of the same brand on his visit in Madrid, since German bicycle brought has suffered considerable damage. The couple will travel throughout Andalusia and will then run to the NW of the Peninsula ”. The Workman couple, were North Americans, had a daughter, Rachel, born in 1884.
They had many problems with the postal service; many of the letters they sent did not reach their destination. They don't tell us anything in their book, what happened in Irún (Basque Country), when they left Spain if they recovered the deposit they made in Port Bou (Catalonia), even no having been a very orthodox payment.
The General Customs Revenue Ordinance of October 15, 1894, in Chapter IV, special cases of importation and reimportation, article 141, point 1 the term for the free stay in Spain of carriages and horse rental, including The cars for the transport of furniture will last 40 days, and must be re-exported by the same Customs office of entry.
Point 2, for carriages and horses belonging to individuals, the term will be six months; being able to verify the exit by different Customs from the one of entry. Travelers on velocipede (bicycle) may also import these under the same rules.
In 1897, the importation of a bicycle had the following tariffs, it was by weight, and the unit was 100 kg., There were 2 types, one of 84 pesetas / unit and the second 70 pesetas / unit, the difference is that it would have or not an agreement with the importing country.
They had many problems with the postal service; many of the letters they sent did not reach their destination. They don't tell us anything in their book, what happened in Irún (Basque Country), when they left Spain if they recovered the deposit they made in Port Bou (Catalonia), even no having been a very orthodox payment.
The General Customs Revenue Ordinance of October 15, 1894, in Chapter IV, special cases of importation and reimportation, article 141, point 1 the term for the free stay in Spain of carriages and horse rental, including The cars for the transport of furniture will last 40 days, and must be re-exported by the same Customs office of entry.
Point 2, for carriages and horses belonging to individuals, the term will be six months; being able to verify the exit by different Customs from the one of entry. Travelers on velocipede (bicycle) may also import these under the same rules.
In 1897, the importation of a bicycle had the following tariffs, it was by weight, and the unit was 100 kg., There were 2 types, one of 84 pesetas / unit and the second 70 pesetas / unit, the difference is that it would have or not an agreement with the importing country.
El Heraldo de Madrid, July 02, 1893
Although these trips were not exclusive to foreigners, in 1893, in the month of July, two Asturians Enrique Díaz Argüelles and Maximino Alberú, made a trip from Cognac and Bordeaux to Oviedo, the trip lasted 5 days (July, 1 - July, 5), on the roads of France, they said that they met, specifically in Mout-De Marsau, with French cyclists, whose destination was Madrid, and that they arrived in Bayonne much earlier than the French.
At that time the Madrid press was counting the bicycle trip, for example, La Correspondencia de España, on June 29, 1893 published, by some French cyclists, Perrodil (Albi - France Novembre 19, 1860 - Ambrus - France December 03, 1931) and Farman (Paris May 26, 1874 - Paris July 18, 1958), who were delaying their trip to Madrid for the bad weather and who had left Bordeaux on June 28 at 14:00 , on the 29th at 8:00 in Mont de Marsan arriving at the border that same night, and they wouldn't arrive in Madrid until July 2. The trip was narrated in the newspaper every day by telegram, as if it were the chronicle of a sports cycling tour. On the 29th they arrived at Bayona at 20:35 with a third companion, Boyer, continuing to San Sebastian from where they left at 4:00 for Victoria. On the 1st they arrived in Valladolid at 19:00, leaving for Olmedo at 22:00, and early morning from Olmedo to Madrid, crossing the port of Guadarrama, where it seems that they suffered several falls, they entered Madrid at 7:40 p.m. the Puerta de Hierro. Perrodil was editor of the French newspaper, Le Petit Journal. This trip also ended to been written in a book, with illustrations by Farman, “Veló! Toro!: Paris-Madrid à bicyclette in 1893 ” published in 1894, in 2013 it was published in Spanish, edited by inter-portfolio.
At that time the Madrid press was counting the bicycle trip, for example, La Correspondencia de España, on June 29, 1893 published, by some French cyclists, Perrodil (Albi - France Novembre 19, 1860 - Ambrus - France December 03, 1931) and Farman (Paris May 26, 1874 - Paris July 18, 1958), who were delaying their trip to Madrid for the bad weather and who had left Bordeaux on June 28 at 14:00 , on the 29th at 8:00 in Mont de Marsan arriving at the border that same night, and they wouldn't arrive in Madrid until July 2. The trip was narrated in the newspaper every day by telegram, as if it were the chronicle of a sports cycling tour. On the 29th they arrived at Bayona at 20:35 with a third companion, Boyer, continuing to San Sebastian from where they left at 4:00 for Victoria. On the 1st they arrived in Valladolid at 19:00, leaving for Olmedo at 22:00, and early morning from Olmedo to Madrid, crossing the port of Guadarrama, where it seems that they suffered several falls, they entered Madrid at 7:40 p.m. the Puerta de Hierro. Perrodil was editor of the French newspaper, Le Petit Journal. This trip also ended to been written in a book, with illustrations by Farman, “Veló! Toro!: Paris-Madrid à bicyclette in 1893 ” published in 1894, in 2013 it was published in Spanish, edited by inter-portfolio.
La Correspondencia de España July 02, 1893
FRENCH IMPORT
How were the journalists of before
How are those of now
FRENCH IMPORT
How were the journalists of before
How are those of now
Well, we can say that in the case of the United States, it would be the opposite because in 1900, a young man from Chicago came to Spain, for a bicycle trip around the country, and sent a summary of the Spanish press to his parents for letter, they talked about the United States, mainly the anti-Americans, he talks about "El Imparcial" and "El Libertad", our friend translated news for them, and he even mentions a new newspaper "El Mateo" of which he said that it mentioned in his articles a Possible internal revolution in the USA.
We must remember, that the war of 1898 had ended, (April 25, 1898 - August 12, 1898). But the one who could speak better about the subject was the journalist Poultney Bigelow (New York September 10, 1855 - Saugerties - New York May 28, 1954), because he took a bicycle trip in Spain, arriving in Hendaye (France) on March 3, 1898, where they put a lead seal on his bicycle, which he should keep until his return to France, so as not to have to pay any tariff. It must be remembered that at that time the winds of war were already blowing, between the United States and Spain, the explosion of the battleship Maine in Havana, was on February 15, 1898. Poultney did not come alone, he was accompanied by two friends George Devoll (tenor) and Edwin Islam (baritone), and on American bicycles. At the border of Spain, the bikes were taxed, as if they were imported, but the agent indicated that upon leaving the country they would be returned, Bigelow, like the Workmans, again indicates that the recovery of that money should be for the same border post, if we remember the law, did not say exactly that. They also had to pay on their return to France, a Spanish peasant who once cleaned bicycles, cut the stamps.
From Irún they went to San Sebastián, where they visited a fortress, surprised that the sentries did not tell them anything, even of the camera carried in their hands. They were looking for a map to be able to go to their next stop that was Tolosa, and for the rest of their trip through Spain, they went to the Veloz Club Donostiarra, but they did not get the desired help, the most they got was how to get to Tolosa, the first thing they they discovered was the mud of the roads, and they even used the sidewalks, which surprised them, pedestrians and cyclists used them with courtesy and respect for each other, leading to the following statement: “The Spanish is decidedly on a higher plane of civilization, in so far as Street etiquete is concerned tan the American or the Englishman…… How the Spaniard must despise us for our barbarous manners!”
In this first stage, a tire exploded, although the punctures will be daily and one of the bicycle in Madrid would be replaced.
One thing that advises travelers to Spain, that they should not be discouraged by appearances, that they learned from their stop in Tolosa, where they stayed at the Fonda Agueda, dinners, beds and breakfasts, charged them 5 pesetas, 0.75 $, his idea was that the daily expenses did not exceed $ 1, he tells us that they did it except in the big cities and the purchases that Islam made. He even tells us about a meal at the foot of the road, they had bought 1 loaf of bread, 1 l. wine, a piece of chocolate, some peanuts and some oranges, at a cost of less than $ 0.10 per head.
Between Vitoria and Burgos due to an accident they had to use the train, in 3rd class it was full of soldiers, and the reader can imagine where our friends ended up. They told the soldiers, who had just arrived from London and were cycling to Madrid. When asked where they were from, they tried to evade the answer, and except on one occasion in Valladolid, by an English cook, in generally, they went through what in Europe was known as “crazy English”. He had read that Castilla was a desert, with shepherds and herds, but he compares it to California, Arizona, ... that climate and those lands, he loved them, and he finds an explanation for the hospitality with strangers of those people, in the Spanish heritage of those States, very different from the Eastern States of the USA.
The best food they had, not only on the trip, but in a long time, was in a small town between Burgos and Valladolid, called Quintana (I think it was Quintana del Puente), they stopped there because they had a breakdown that did not allow them to continue in bicycle to reach their destination, and a road mender that they found, took them, there was no inn, so they bought some meat in one house and in another a woman made them a dinner, and demanded to be served at 18: 00, made up of a soup with pieces of meat, meat with Saratoga potatoes according to Poultney, I doubt that that poor woman would know that they are Saratoga potatoes, nor would it be fried potatoes in olive oil, which in those days olive oil was still a luxury product, an omelette, and to finish cheese, oranges and coffee, all this meant $ 0.16 per head, since there was no accommodation, they approached the station and took the train to Valladolid, as not, in 3rd class, there they met a young man who was returning to home from Cuba, with swamp fever, the boy was shivering, because he only had his soldier's outfit in Cuba, a brother had already lost a hand on the island.
Poultney visited Toledo, where, as it still happens today with US tourists, as he said “In Spain things are spoken of as modern which we would regard as bits of antiquity……. we make a fuss over the antiquity of a house that has survived since the time of George Washington”, although in Toledo, he almost was been integrated into Spain, being able to be a bullfighter, since he had to flee from a bull that had escaped through the streets of Toledo. The trip back to Madrid, he was done by train, in a 3rd class wagon, which in his opinion, it is where you learn more about the people and institutions of Spain, on that trip he had a civil guard as companion, an institution that I praise and that the USA I should copy from Europe, a national police, to protect roads and places, and not depend on each local police, the FBI did not yet exist.
During his stay in Madrid, he visited the politician Emilio Castelar Ripoll (Cádiz September 07, 1832 - San Pedro de Pinatar - Murcia May 25, 1899), about whom he praised, including the lack of persecution by the Government against him, he said "that socially Spain enjoys more political liberty than Germany", it seems that he is repeating the steps he had taken the previous year, and he visits of the British Embassy, on leaving it, engages in conversation with a Spanish great man, whom he had met at the dinner, the previous year at Castelar's house, our friend seeks response to one thing he does not understand, which is bullfighting, as it may be that during all his tour, he had seen an exquisite treatment with donkeys, mules ..., and that he could not say the same in England or America, and comes to the following conclusion, reason “The Spaniard, individually, is as gentle, as kind to his familiars, as the people of other European countries. His sins spring mostly from ignorance, which, in its turn, produces a certain indifference”. They also visited United States Embassy, specifically on March 22, for them it was like going back home, unlike other countries, which owned the legation, in this case it was a rent of about $ 4,000 per year, which Bigelow reprobate; the ambassador did not feel insecure, even the Spanish Government had put 6 policemen at the door as a precaution and except for certain groups and the press he did not see nationalism or jingoism (English expression RAE Exalted patriotism that advocates aggression against other nations), which was in those moments at its peak the United States, and that once in the articles, Poultney criticized, we must remember the war in the press, between Hearst and Pulitzer. Oh, as a curiosity the butler was colored and our friend asked for a pension for him, when he returned home.
We must remember, that the war of 1898 had ended, (April 25, 1898 - August 12, 1898). But the one who could speak better about the subject was the journalist Poultney Bigelow (New York September 10, 1855 - Saugerties - New York May 28, 1954), because he took a bicycle trip in Spain, arriving in Hendaye (France) on March 3, 1898, where they put a lead seal on his bicycle, which he should keep until his return to France, so as not to have to pay any tariff. It must be remembered that at that time the winds of war were already blowing, between the United States and Spain, the explosion of the battleship Maine in Havana, was on February 15, 1898. Poultney did not come alone, he was accompanied by two friends George Devoll (tenor) and Edwin Islam (baritone), and on American bicycles. At the border of Spain, the bikes were taxed, as if they were imported, but the agent indicated that upon leaving the country they would be returned, Bigelow, like the Workmans, again indicates that the recovery of that money should be for the same border post, if we remember the law, did not say exactly that. They also had to pay on their return to France, a Spanish peasant who once cleaned bicycles, cut the stamps.
From Irún they went to San Sebastián, where they visited a fortress, surprised that the sentries did not tell them anything, even of the camera carried in their hands. They were looking for a map to be able to go to their next stop that was Tolosa, and for the rest of their trip through Spain, they went to the Veloz Club Donostiarra, but they did not get the desired help, the most they got was how to get to Tolosa, the first thing they they discovered was the mud of the roads, and they even used the sidewalks, which surprised them, pedestrians and cyclists used them with courtesy and respect for each other, leading to the following statement: “The Spanish is decidedly on a higher plane of civilization, in so far as Street etiquete is concerned tan the American or the Englishman…… How the Spaniard must despise us for our barbarous manners!”
In this first stage, a tire exploded, although the punctures will be daily and one of the bicycle in Madrid would be replaced.
One thing that advises travelers to Spain, that they should not be discouraged by appearances, that they learned from their stop in Tolosa, where they stayed at the Fonda Agueda, dinners, beds and breakfasts, charged them 5 pesetas, 0.75 $, his idea was that the daily expenses did not exceed $ 1, he tells us that they did it except in the big cities and the purchases that Islam made. He even tells us about a meal at the foot of the road, they had bought 1 loaf of bread, 1 l. wine, a piece of chocolate, some peanuts and some oranges, at a cost of less than $ 0.10 per head.
Devoll and Islam. Harper's Weekly, May 14, 1898
The next stop was Vitoria, in this area the peasants still used very old tools, and in some mountain pass, they had to put foot on the land, as had happened them to the Workmans, and since they also suffered road repairs, since were filled with pointed stones. In Vitoria they are guided by a member of the cycling club, and they talked about the situation in Cuba, the guide not being very critical of the actions of the United States, they even walked near the new infantry barracks that was being finished, in the city there were 3 social clubs, one loyal to the government, and which even includes the military, another very radical, almost socialist, and the 3rd Carlist (who defines him as revolutionary), the host ends with the next phase “Yes, everything is wrong… we are encouraging the Civil War… Spain has too much freedom ”.Between Vitoria and Burgos due to an accident they had to use the train, in 3rd class it was full of soldiers, and the reader can imagine where our friends ended up. They told the soldiers, who had just arrived from London and were cycling to Madrid. When asked where they were from, they tried to evade the answer, and except on one occasion in Valladolid, by an English cook, in generally, they went through what in Europe was known as “crazy English”. He had read that Castilla was a desert, with shepherds and herds, but he compares it to California, Arizona, ... that climate and those lands, he loved them, and he finds an explanation for the hospitality with strangers of those people, in the Spanish heritage of those States, very different from the Eastern States of the USA.
The best food they had, not only on the trip, but in a long time, was in a small town between Burgos and Valladolid, called Quintana (I think it was Quintana del Puente), they stopped there because they had a breakdown that did not allow them to continue in bicycle to reach their destination, and a road mender that they found, took them, there was no inn, so they bought some meat in one house and in another a woman made them a dinner, and demanded to be served at 18: 00, made up of a soup with pieces of meat, meat with Saratoga potatoes according to Poultney, I doubt that that poor woman would know that they are Saratoga potatoes, nor would it be fried potatoes in olive oil, which in those days olive oil was still a luxury product, an omelette, and to finish cheese, oranges and coffee, all this meant $ 0.16 per head, since there was no accommodation, they approached the station and took the train to Valladolid, as not, in 3rd class, there they met a young man who was returning to home from Cuba, with swamp fever, the boy was shivering, because he only had his soldier's outfit in Cuba, a brother had already lost a hand on the island.
Guardias Civiles (Gendarmes), Road Mender, Quintana del Puente. Haper's Weekly June 18,1898
He discovers that like baseball is the sport of the United States, in all parts of Spain the game of pelota is played, he even saw on one of the walls of the Cathedral of Burgos, a graffiti that prohibited playing ball.Poultney visited Toledo, where, as it still happens today with US tourists, as he said “In Spain things are spoken of as modern which we would regard as bits of antiquity……. we make a fuss over the antiquity of a house that has survived since the time of George Washington”, although in Toledo, he almost was been integrated into Spain, being able to be a bullfighter, since he had to flee from a bull that had escaped through the streets of Toledo. The trip back to Madrid, he was done by train, in a 3rd class wagon, which in his opinion, it is where you learn more about the people and institutions of Spain, on that trip he had a civil guard as companion, an institution that I praise and that the USA I should copy from Europe, a national police, to protect roads and places, and not depend on each local police, the FBI did not yet exist.
During his stay in Madrid, he visited the politician Emilio Castelar Ripoll (Cádiz September 07, 1832 - San Pedro de Pinatar - Murcia May 25, 1899), about whom he praised, including the lack of persecution by the Government against him, he said "that socially Spain enjoys more political liberty than Germany", it seems that he is repeating the steps he had taken the previous year, and he visits of the British Embassy, on leaving it, engages in conversation with a Spanish great man, whom he had met at the dinner, the previous year at Castelar's house, our friend seeks response to one thing he does not understand, which is bullfighting, as it may be that during all his tour, he had seen an exquisite treatment with donkeys, mules ..., and that he could not say the same in England or America, and comes to the following conclusion, reason “The Spaniard, individually, is as gentle, as kind to his familiars, as the people of other European countries. His sins spring mostly from ignorance, which, in its turn, produces a certain indifference”. They also visited United States Embassy, specifically on March 22, for them it was like going back home, unlike other countries, which owned the legation, in this case it was a rent of about $ 4,000 per year, which Bigelow reprobate; the ambassador did not feel insecure, even the Spanish Government had put 6 policemen at the door as a precaution and except for certain groups and the press he did not see nationalism or jingoism (English expression RAE Exalted patriotism that advocates aggression against other nations), which was in those moments at its peak the United States, and that once in the articles, Poultney criticized, we must remember the war in the press, between Hearst and Pulitzer. Oh, as a curiosity the butler was colored and our friend asked for a pension for him, when he returned home.
New York Daily Tribune April 11, 1897
Bibliography: Adventure Journal November 14, 2012. Climber and Explorer Fanny Bullock Workman, Brendan Leonard. Historical Statistics of Spain: XIX-XX. Fundación BBVA. Yearbook of commerce, industry, magistracy and administration, Bailly-Baillière. Statistical Abstract of the United States, 1909. Institut National D’etudes Demographiques, Office for National Statistics of United Kingdom. Statistisches Bundesant Deutschland. Evening Journal Wilmington August 29, 1908
They toured the Mediterranean coast, between Alicante and Valencia, where he tells us that they had the impression that they had never seen a bicycle, even the mules were scared when crossing them, although they tried to dismount when they were sighted them, and they never had any problem with any muleteer. For those lands they seemed to be still in the Muslim era, if our friend came back, I think he was going to have a little surprise. It was in the only area where he had an incident for taking photos with his Kodak, it was with a neighbor, but the rest took his side and was able to continue photographing. They noticed the difference between the interior and coastal police, the latter more reserved, not so friendly. Its main function was the fight against smuggling, aided by the profile of the coast. He had an encounter with a sentry in San Martín Cape (Alicante), a man in a threadbare military suit, peasant shoes, a frayed blanket and his son, was attentive to the movements of a small schooner, among fishing boats. The boy was offered some peanuts, which he ate with satisfaction, but the father politely rejected them, it was not a plot to bribe him, during his entire trip through Spain, at no time did they feel that the bribery could have helped them with minor officials or police.
Bigelow, as the reader will have deduced, was recurrent in all the encounters, the situation in Cuba, sometimes did not seem like a tourist and pleasure trip. He, for example on May 28, 1898, would publish in Harper’s an article on the battle of Cabañas (Cuba), and sent chronicles from Tampa (Florida), a place with so many Spanish and Asturian influences. Although he himself summarized his bicycle trip through Spain “Our Spanish trip was an immense success, and I every advise American to follow our example. We had bad roads in plenty and some hardships, yet never a dull day, never a discourtesy, never a meeting that did not result in friendship.”
Barcelona cómica. 1897
Luis Álvarez Barbón published a statistic, that he collected, the number of cyclists in different countries of the world, in Spain he says that they were 20,000 (Spanish population in 1897 18,108,610 inhabitants), United States 2,500,000 (in 1900 76,303,387 ), England 1,400,000 (in the United Kingdom 1897 39,987,300), France 600,000 (in 1896 38,517,000), and Germany 500,000 (in 1900 56,046,000), (Barcelona Comica 01/1897). A year later the Chicago Times Herald published a brief article, in which the United States Consul, in Coruña, transmitted a report saying that the use of the bicycle had not increased, and the population considered it a pastime of the wealthy, and ends with the following comment, from the newspaper "such a nation has no remedy." Although in the yearbook of 1899 there is no US consul in Coruña, in the 1898 year appears as consul, Julio Harmony, who lived in the Orense Square, 8, Julio removed the shield and flag and went to Washington, as published, La Iberia on April 22, 1898, although, in January 1900, he had already been granted permission to serve as consul in Coruña.
Yes, Chicago Times Herald, I agree, Spain is
hopeless, just imagine, you William A. Spain, spent several months in 1908, in
Wilmington (Deleware) preparing for a round of the world trip, first to New
York, and then from there to Pacific coast to go to Japan, the trip was to last
2 years, a little less than the Magellan-Elcano expedition (September 20, 1519
- September 06, 1522), the first round the world trip, Spain was a barber and a
native of Memphis (Tennessee), his round the world was going to be by bicycle.
Bibliography: Adventure Journal November 14, 2012. Climber and Explorer Fanny Bullock Workman, Brendan Leonard. Historical Statistics of Spain: XIX-XX. Fundación BBVA. Yearbook of commerce, industry, magistracy and administration, Bailly-Baillière. Statistical Abstract of the United States, 1909. Institut National D’etudes Demographiques, Office for National Statistics of United Kingdom. Statistisches Bundesant Deutschland. Evening Journal Wilmington August 29, 1908
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